Creative landscape, travel and wildlife photographer Denise Silva offers some tips and techniques on long exposure photography with FUJIFILM gear.
Category Archives: How To
Do you ever feel the need to shoot one of your photographs in black and white, even if you can’t pinpoint why? The art of black and white photography is surprisingly difficult to master, and most images don’t make the cut. This article explains why some B&W photos succeed and others fail, including the seven critical elements of the best black and white work. It also covers how to convert monochrome images properly in software like Lightroom and Photoshop.
Travel photography is an area of growing interest among photographers. Whether from novices or accomplished amateurs, over the past ten years I have been asked more questions about travel photography than any other topic.
I was honored to receive an invitation from B & H Photo in The Big Apple to deliver a travel photography presentation to an eager audience in their lecture hall. B&H recorded the presentation and it is now available online, FREE to anyone who wants to see it. So, if you have a spare hour,grab a cup of coffee, sit back and watch some of the tips and techniques that I present, gleaned from traveling the world, leading photo tours, and teaching travel photography workshops.
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There are still openings in our 2015-16 schedule. If you have any suggestions for 2016, please send Ron Peiffer and Chuck Gallegos an email at firstname.lastname@example.org.
January 2: Exhibit Setup – At 10:00 AM we will meet at the Glen Burnie Regional Library to setup our annual exhibit. Each member can bring three to four images matted, framed, ready to hang with wire on the back. We will need a ladder and t-pins or drapery hooks to hang the art work. Work cannot be listed for sale. Business cards may not be displayed with the exhibits. It is appropriate to display the photograph’s title, the name of the photographer, and their town of residence. (For example: “Still Life” by Janet Jones of Crofton.)
January 6: Program: Macro Tabletop Night – Club members will bring their cameras and stuff to photograph. The challenge will be macro photography. Good items to bring include anything but flowers are always popular. If you have strobes bring them. Also backdrops and tablecloths can be useful. Unlimited members will work with novice members to share tips and tricks to macro photography.
January 13: Contest – We will hold our January Digital contest for both novice and unlimited members. Only paid members may compete. Members may submit up to three digital images. The theme will be “Open” so anything goes. The rules for competitions are available at http://arundelcameraclub.org/rules-summary/
January 20: Program: How Did You Do That? Part II – Part I went so well back in November, we have decided to give it another go letting other photographers show us how they post processed their images to get the final works of art.
January 23: Field Trip – Smithsonian Insect Zoo – We will drive down to D.C. to visit the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History, O. Orkin Insect Zoo and Butterfly Pavilion. The museum is open from 10:00 AM until 5:30 PM daily. Tarantula Feeding Demonstrations Sat-Sun 11:30, 12:30 & 1:30
January 27: Contest – Color/Monochrome – We will hold our January color and monochrome print contests for both novice and unlimited members. Only paid members may compete. Members may submit up to three color prints and up to three monochrome prints. The theme will be “Open” so anything goes. The rules for competitions are available at http://arundelcameraclub.org/rules-summary/
January 31: Exhibit Take Down – At 1:00 PM we will meet at the Glen Burnie Regional Library to take down our exhibit. Each exhibitor is expected to come and pick up their photographs.
The club has a couple of upcoming field trips to some regional air shows, so I thought I’d share some techniques on how to take better in-flight photographs. It comes down to selecting the right lens, an appropriate shutter speed, and learning to pan smoothly from the waist.
Lens-wise, you want a moderate-to-long telephoto or zoom lens. I own a 70-200mm lens and it’s adequate on a full-frame camera, but a 70-300mm or 100-400mm lens would be better. This is a situation where using crop-sensor cameras can work to your advantage. You get a 50% tighter crop (or more, depending on the camera), effectively turning a 70-300mm lens into a 105-450mm equivalent.
If you’re photographing jets, shutter speed doesn’t matter so much. There’s no propeller movement to consider so you can just select a fast shutter speed and concentrate on getting sharp pictures. But if you’re photographing propeller-driven aircraft (including helicopters and gyrocopters) then shutter speed makes a big difference in the feel of the image. You don’t want to freeze the propeller(s), it just doesn’t look right. So you need to select a shutter speed that leaves the propeller blurry. Compare the following three images (shot at 200mm and cropped in about 40%):
I changed my shutter speed in between passes to the values given in the lower left-hand corner. Notice how the first image, shot at 1/4000 of a second, makes the plane seem like it’s just sitting in mid-air. There’s no sense of speed or energy, even with the smoke trailing behind it. The middle shot (using 1/500th of a second) and especially the bottom shot (taken at 1/250th) give a much better sense of motion and speed.
In general, shutter speeds between 1/125th and 1/1000th of a second are what you want to use for propeller-driven aircraft. The exact setting depends on the aircraft and how fast its propeller rotates. You also have to remember that the aircraft is moving. So you need to pick a shutter fast enough to compensate for motion blur. In order to minimize motion blur you should also learn how to pan from the waist smoothly. Basically, you want to stand facing the flight line. If the aircraft is approaching from your left, you rotate your upper body (from the waist up) to the left while keeping your feet planted and frame the aircraft in your viewfinder. You rotate your upper body to the right as the aircraft moves from left to right and try to keep the aircraft in the same position in your viewfinder. You want to match your upper body’s rotational speed with the speed of the aircraft. If you set your camera’s motor drive to continuous exposure you’ll capture a sequence of images as the aircraft flies by. Squeeze the shutter smoothly so as to not jerk the camera during your first couple exposures.
In the above sequence of 10 images I used a shutter speed of 1/125. This is pretty slow for this aircraft, which was moving at about 300 MPH (only about 3 of the frames are sharp enough to use), but the propeller blur is fantastic. Here’s another shot from a different pass where I included a bit of the ocean. Notice how nicely the water and boats are blurred while the aircraft is sharp?
When you get your shutter speed right and your panning squared away this is what you can accomplish. Here are some other shots from that day, with shutter speed noted in the corner. Note that for these aircraft 1/1000th. of a second is too fast.
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